51�Թ�

Each volador takes a turn walking around the tree with the incense and flowers, and sprinkling it with holy water and aguardiente.

The principal grape drink was aguardiente, a portmanteau meaning “burning water,” a brandy of considerable ferocity.

It is distinct from other cane sugar liquors, including Colombian aguardiente, because the sugar cane must be grown next to the sea or a river and alongside other crops native to the region that producers say give viche its distinct smoky-citrus taste.

Lexicographer Francisco Sobrino defined ponche or diapente, in 1732, as an English drink made with aguardiente, water, lime and sugar.

After Mass, bottles of aguardiente, a local firewater, and beer were passed around to people in need of a stiff drink after such an emotionally draining day.