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Leading the fiery demonstrations was Evo Morales, a native Aymara cocalero from the Chapare and the president of a powerful coca-growers’ union, raging against neoliberal economics and the war on coca — both seen as stand-ins for gringo imperialism.

According to the Aymara peoples of Bolivia and Peru, a group of settlers trekking through the mountains had made camp, but their campfire spiraled out of control, angering the gods, who washed them away with a stormy flood.

The Aymara women fear climate change could sweep away their jobs.

The Aymara women remember a time when practically every spot on the glaciers was covered in snow, but now there are parts with nothing but rocks.

The six-inch-long reptile, called a jararanko—which translates to “lizard” in the Indigenous Aymara language—climbs onto a rock, basking in the sunlight.