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One of Brandt’s favorite dishes currently flying is a Jain-style butternut squash carpaccio with Pav Bhaji masala orange segments, cilantro, a coconut-squash puree and toasted coconut flakes.

She made her name writing 1993 film Bhaji on the Beach and as part of sketch show Goodness Gracious Me.

Syal recalled how the media and comedy scenes opened up to different ideas in the 1990s, saying a Film Four executive agreed to her idea for Bhaji on the Beach within about 15 minutes.

She would frequent roadside stalls selling snacks like pav bhaji, a savory vegetable curry served on a bread roll; and pani puri, crispy palm-sized puris stuffed with potatoes, chickpeas and spicy flavored water.

Tables were piled with bhaji, hummus, couscous and more.