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In her “You Are Not Expected to Understand This” chapter, Elena Botella examines the very first “code,” which she dates back to a time before Mozart was the first boy band sensation, to French weaver Basile Bouchon’s decision in 1725 to streamline his workload by creating punch cards.

Her resume includes working at Bouchon Bakery in Yountville, and baking bread for the French Laundry, both in Yountville, Calif., and owned by Thomas Keller.

“Mom made me leave it because I was obsessing over the lips,” said Hanalee Pervan, who has worked at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon Bakery in Yountville, Calif., and was part of the team that made bread for Mr. Keller’s famed restaurant The French Laundry, also in Yountville.

We can still buy some made from legacy vineyards in Chile, where it is called país, by Mariposa by Gillmore and Bouchon Family.

The married couple at Off Alley in Seattle cram a dozen customers into a tiny room with the raucous feel of a Lyonnaise bouchon.