51�Թ�

By about 6 p.m., as the sourdough boules were left to rest overnight, the wheat loaves emerged from the ovens fragrant and invitingly browned.

I've been hurt by starters that would never become sufficiently foamy, by doughs that sullenly refused to rise, by boules that baked into oversized hockey pucks.

Pépin is a member of a spirited boules club that plays weekends from June to September and consists of about 40 players.

You get points for having more boules close to the cochonnet than your opponent, and whoever has the most points after three rounds wins.

When you're ready to bake, boules will need to be inverted and lowered into the Dutch oven.