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Until now, that is: “Tom Sachs: Tea Ceremony,” an installation of clunky constructions relating to the ancient Japanese tradition of chanoyu, the ritualized preparation and serving of tea, is the first.

With it came tea, whose drinking gradually developed into a specifically Japanese set of rituals known as “chanoyu” or “chado.”

"It is the room for the chanoyu, the tea-ceremony," said her cousin.

"My teacher says—and my teacher was educated at the court of the Tokugawa Shogun—that no woman can have really good manners, if she has not studied the chanoyu."