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From there, the dessert splinters into several different versions: baked ones filled with fruit, like the well-known apple charlotte, and unbaked ones, most commonly known as the cream-filled Charlotte Russe.

Ms. de Boer found similarities between Shaker recipes and her grandmother’s in dishes like apple charlotte and sticky ginger cake.

Apple charlotte is only marginally more complicated: browned apples are baked in a loaf tin lined with white bread, like an autumnal version of summer pudding.

As “Joy of Cooking” has evolved since the first edition in 1931, written by Irma S. Rombauer, so have its recipes for gelatin molds and related aspics, whips, snows, puddings and charlottes.

The street was always busy, and black and white shoppers stopped in the shoe stores or bought charlotte russes to eat as they walked.