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“It used to be Austin shabby. Now it’s very urban chichi.”

Traffic from West L.A. was horrible, of course, and by the time we reached our destination — some chichi Italian place — we were very hungry.

The wealthy have long sought to retreat from public life on this chichi barrier island.

I told Mr. Hastings that, given all the poaching that the big-spending Netflix does, I’m surprised that some Disney executive hasn’t thrown a drink in his face at a chichi restaurant, “Appointment in Samarra” style.

Between the summer and winter of 1997, Casey works long hours as a waitress at Iris, a chichi restaurant in Harvard Square; King recounts every dish she delivers, the head count of every table.