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I tried explaining in detail once to a frustrated caller why we'd had to stop making scallop egg foo yung.

Scallop egg foo yung was the first dish to go, because each dish of it had to be cooked individually, unlike noodles or fried rice, which can be cooked a couple portions at a time.

But James Beard believed that the sandwich originated with Chinese laborers working out West sometime in the late 19th or early 20th century, who developed it as an Americanized egg foo yung.

One of my favorite ideas that I came up with for my I Love Crab Cakes cookbook was to take a twist on that Chinese-American classic egg foo yung with the addition of fresh crabmeat.

You’ll be amazed at how well the delicate sweetness of the crab works with traditional egg foo yung flavors.