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Homemade pastas, local specialties made with farina bóna and an array of traditional charcuterie and cheese.

“They look like a lotus, and some are this incredible white-silver, from the powdery coating on their leaves—the ‘farina,’ or pulverulence—that is a protective mechanism for the sun.

The ring from the “Tom Mix Ralston Straight Shooters” program set him back 10 cents and a label from Ralston instant farina.

If farina and semolina bring to mind only dull and dreaded porridges of childhood, here they are only the bland, blank pages for upma’s complex pleasures.

On Monday, for breakfast, I could cut some apples into a pot of farina, dust it with cinnamon and serve with maple syrup and cream.