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They had seemed dull and forgettable then, but Ophie yearned for one more dinner of beans and fatback with corn bread, Daddy telling stories of the rail yard as they ate.

Growing up in Charlotte, Hill says he and his brother would visit every Sunday and “rush into her house for rendered fatback,” a snack before their lunch together.

It’s a crowd-pleaser fashioned from pork butt, fatback, chicken liver and warm spices.

One day’s main meal might consist of cabbage and fatback.

The dumplings are a Chinese-Korean hybrid, says Lee, steamed to preserve the delicate wrapper and stuffed with ground pork, buttered kimchi and emulsified fatback.