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However, they are battling a species which reproduces at speed: females are able to produce 500 fingerlings at a time.

At one point, it was able to hold 3 million fingerlings that were used to stock ponds, other hatcheries and nearby lakes.

As he talks about the fingerlings, he deftly nets a rare albino sturgeon, swimming in a tank with a thousand other fish and nearly impossible to see against the tank’s white backdrop.

If a road crossed a fish-bearing stream, the new standard required a crossing design that allowed fish to be able to pass through the culvert at every stage of life, including tiny fingerlings.

A much plainer, but no less intriguing, dish follows: banana fingerling potatoes encased in cocoons whipped up from egg whites, salt and huacatay, the Peruvian herb reminiscent of tarragon, mint and citrus.