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After the white flight to the suburbs, it was African-American, home to the beloved Creole fish joint Catfish Corner.

I am at a local fish joint sharing a meal with Michelle Dawson, a longtime friend and mover and shaker in the Nation's Capital Jaguar Owners Club.

Some years ago — never mind how long precisely — having no literary project on the boards, I thought I would open a small fish joint in this watery end of the world.