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Remove the cabbage from the oven, carefully lift it on to plates using a fish slice, then spoon the dressing over the top.

Using a draining spoon or fish slice, transfer them from the pan to a piece of kitchen paper.

Press firmly down at first with a palette knife or fish slice then, once the skin starts to blister and crisp, turn it over.

Just a few feet from our table, a vendor opened up the trunk of his van to reveal plastic bags of dried fish slices that he started selling to those still waiting in line.

He said it was a version of a dish he knew as “fish slices in wine-rice sauce,” made with the liquid that surrounds fermented glutinous rice.