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He sells bread squares, available only on Sundays, that are made by rolling out bao dough, dusting it with five-spice powder and scallions, and then folding it a couple of times before sprinkling sesame seeds over the top.

The vegetable dishes — snappy and smoky green beans, cabbage and Chinese yam seasoned with five-spice powder — are a testament to the reverence the Eastern school of Chinese cooking has for produce.

Then there’s cabbage seasoned with fragrant five-spice powder and tossed with mild Chinese yam and jalapeños — a touch of heat in the garden.

Candy peanuts in sugar and five-spice powder for crunch.

I’m still of two minds about the calamari fritti, a mess of fried squid sprinkled with five-spice powder and served with a shio koji nori ranch dipping sauce.