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The menu also goes in for a few Chinese American hybrids — not the ancient war horses like egg foo yong and chow mein, but more recent hybrids.

Sometimes I chop the meat into nuggets to stir into eggs and onions for a kind of ersatz egg foo yong.

There’s an egg foo yong that will “change your life,” too.

“You don’t eat Chinese food every day, but when you want that flavor, when you want that egg foo yong, you know where to go.”

But egg foo yong is a most approachable, Cantonese-style dish with a tradition of its own: an eggy pancake with a kitchen-sink helping of tender and crisp vegetables, pork, shrimp, even water chestnuts and bean sprouts.