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She’s the very necessary hit of acid needed to make this confection palatable, the spritz of lemon on a plate of fritto misto, cutting through the fat.

Still, you should fit in fritto misto — lightly battered shrimp, calamari and zucchini slices — and grilled octopus splayed over cannellini beans tossed with salsa verde, an appetizer set off with shaved fennel.

The menu, overseen by Mr. Omari, is devoted to typical fare: bruschetta, arancini, fritto misto, polpette, pollo Milanese, Caesar salad and pasta Bolognese, alla vongole and carbonara.

To hold all the regulars who rely on its lasagna, its exceptional eggplant-and-zucchini parmigiana, grilled pizza and party-size fritto misto, Fresco by Scotto has built an outdoor pavilion that may need its own ZIP code.

A fairly typical lineup of thin-crust pizzas, appetizers like fritto misto and baked clams, salads, pastas and main dishes is the work of two chefs, Balente Barroso and Jesus Candia.