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The lion’s share of Tokaji is made with Furmint grapes, on which the noble rot is encouraged to grow.

Furmint is the grape of Hungary’s marvelous sweet tokaji wines.

Unless, that is, you stumble upon a Furmint, the wild, stony Hungarian white with off-the-chart levels of acidity: Wheaty, brisk, savory and compact, the best of these, like the bracing Birtok from Samuel Tinon, are like sucking a lemon infused with a slurry of minerals, a salty, lemony bee sting of a wine — which is all you can ask for on a summer day.

“Just as Bordeaux has its cabernet sauvignon and merlot or Brunello di Montalcino has its Sangiovese, Tokaj has its furmint, lipovina and muscat,” Mr. Vittek said.

He said that dry furmint is aiming to be the next star wine from Tokaj.