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The worry is that these Western initiatives could result in “the ability to mandate what kind of oil is good oil,” and how much it should cost, said Karen E. Young, a senior research scholar at the Columbia University Center on Energy Policy.

Lettuce Romaine, butterhead, red leaf, radicchio, frisée — these tender leaves are the foundation of good salads and make a meal by themselves with a good oil and vinegar.

Serve them with their broth in a bowl, with crusty bread or toast on the side, and garnish with a drizzle of fresh, good oil, and some flaky sea salt.

Especially if it’s what I’ll call a best-available can of fish: sustainably caught, packed in good oil.

Contrary to what many American cooks have been led to believe, good oil should not be held in reserve for a little drizzling here and there, but used for all kinds of everyday cooking and for deep-frying.