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The LGBT-owned winery makes California wine in small batches with little intervention for a high wine that’s ready to enjoy.

As we ventured back to restaurants in fits and starts while variants surged and restrictions were lifted then reimposed, many of us recoiled from high wine markups.

Less known were the high wine bills of James K. Polk, the 11th president; the rejuvenation of the White House cellar after Prohibition under Franklin D. Roosevelt; or Lyndon B. Johnson’s policy of serving only American wines at state functions, a custom that presidents, with the exception of Nixon, have stuck to ever since.

As in his other places, Mr. Stulman has very high wine markups, about three times retail.

Cannon did well on sugar, but nobody dissected the whiskey section which bored gimlet holes into the bottom of every barrel of high wine to let it out without paying a cent of tax.