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“The Houstonia loved it the first few years. It was phenomenal and breathtaking,” Bittner said.

It was good news for Tom Kreisel, who farms near tiny Houstonia, Missouri.

Until Houstonia magazine trumpeted the story of David Skinner and Eculent restaurant earlier this year, neither had I. The headline was pure catnip for anyone who lives to eat: “One of the best restaurants in the world is in Kemah,” 45 minutes from downtown Houston.

“It was devastating,” the organizers said in a statement provided to Houstonia magazine.

Two years later, a similar ad in Houstonia magazine elicited letters expressing disgust about the featured biracial family.