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Nearly overnight, Jimmy went from an inconnu to welcome everywhere in town.

UNDERWOOD, Wash. — Laura Brennan Bissell was already making wine under her own label, Inconnu, in Northern California when she visited the Columbia River Gorge for the first time.

She worked hard developing her California label, Inconnu, which will continue, but she knows she’s been lucky.

For a dish of salmon with figs and fennel in a red-wine sauce, Aaron Fusco of Café Boulud picked two less-conventional reds, a 2014 cabernet sauvignon and a 2014 merlot from the Carneros region of Sonoma County, both from Inconnu Wine.

“La Vérité Sur l’Imaginaire Passion d’un Inconnu” is up on Vimeo, without subtitles.