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From their heads sprout Sprite bottle locks, manes made from electrical wire, telephone cord curls and espresso pod Bantu knots.

“I didn’t want to draw attention to myself,” she whispered, as she passed teenage girls leading shiny horses with braided manes.

Their limbs long and bronzed, pouring on Banana Boat, pulling aside silky manes so a friend could oil their backs, flipping like kebabs every 15 minutes or so.

In the forested areas between Mount Rainier, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens, foragers can look for chanterelles, shaggy manes and the rare Pacific Northwest matsutake.

The screens hang above the row of committee members who all look crisper and a bit more self-consciously groomed than usual with their blowouts and trimmed beards and clipped manes.