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Moira Hodgson, who during her brief stint as restaurant critic for The Times in 1980 may have been one of the only people who went to the Odeon to eat, was impressed enough by dishes like “��é�岹�������DzԲ� of tender veal on a green pool of puréed watercress artfully decorated by leeks, string beans, carrots and celery” that she gave the restaurant two stars.

Veal medaillons with morels followed, and finally there was to be a cold praline souffle.

Thus while passengers on U.S. domestic flights wrestle with their rubbery entrees, Swissair passengers flying first class out of Atlanta may sample smoked salmon, caviar, lobster medaillons, foie gras, pan-fried trout or vacherin glace, among other esoterica.

To the accompaniment of a wide assortment of military ensembles, the $500-a-plate guests ate striped bass and medaillons de veau.