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A sensualist, Pepper at times supported the family by writing cookbooks; the first, in 1952, “The Glamour Magazine After Five Cookbook,” includes a recipe for mock turtle soup.

The menu by Mario Carbone, the chef and a partner in Major Food, features dishes from that era, like steak tartare, scallops in snail butter, mock turtle soup, avocado crab Louis and lobster Newburg.

Four separate dishes can be made from one head, viz.: boiled calf’s head, cold jellied calf’s head, mock turtle soup, tongue and brains, with white, Poulette, or Vinaigrette sauce.

It is especially relished in mock turtle soup, which, when correctly made, derives its peculiar taste chiefly from the clovelike flavor of basil.

The next round was mock turtle soup, and it made a deep impression, especially on Charlie Swayne, because little Casanova Golden upset her share in his lap when he least expected it.