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The guide pointed out hills, like Mooli Mooli, meaning “little stacked hills,” that rolled beyond us, a sacred tribal site.

In “Vegetarian India” from 2015, Madhur Jaffrey named it Narangi aur lal mooli ka salaad, and suggested experimenting with every radish cultivar in existence.

Add grated ginger and mooli, or chopped spring onion as a garnish on the soup.

The mooli, or white radish, in Luu’s recipe is a puzzle, though – it doesn’t appear to be present in the finished dish, but I’m not sure what part it might play in flavouring the stock, given that it doesn’t have much flavour of its own.

Origin India, a restaurant and bar in Las Vegas, offered a five-day special meal for the festival, which included pindi channa, a spicy preparation of chickpeas, and sarson ka sag makki ki roti with mooli and methi, mustard greens and corn flour flatbread served with radish and fenugreek.