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Ben Elliot Lee ordered petits pois for a shepherd’s pie and got a 12-pack of Petits Filous.

He hired Brian Loiacono, 30, whose experience includes many years at Daniel Boulud’s restaurants, so snails, foie gras, rillettes, steak frites, petits pois, potato-crusted black sea bass and a stunning crown roast of lamb with asparagus are now on the menu.

There are serviceable recipes for petits pois à la Française — spring peas, onions, bacon, lettuce — though I usually change their details to match my habits.

When the choux-fleurs are finished, then come the petits pois, and then the artichauts and other l�gumes in favour with the Paris bon-vivants.

Asparagus, 307. fried, 308. en petits pois, 307. in omelet, 308. with cream, 308.    "   vinaigrette, 308.    "   white sauce, 308.