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51�Թ� on the street is that Cafe du Soleil serves up the best quenelle — the must-have bouchon dish — in Lyon, and I’d believe it.

Bright orange trout roe shimmers from a dimple in the quenelle, which rises from a burnt-orange moat of lobster bisque dotted with buttery sauteed crayfish.

The quenelle, an ivory round of delicate custard formed from fish and cream, dares you not to take its photo.

He is widely associated with an inverted Nazi salute known as the quenelle.

As it happens, when mixed into a sweet and fluffy cake, the herb’s brightness and light pepper and bitterness open out into aromatic splendor, a Grinch-green crumble that can warm the heart, beneath a delicate quenelle of brown-butter ice cream.