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Sure enough, at breakfast, Mama made oatmeal with spoonfuls of her scuppernong jelly, but I pushed at the bowl until Jay grabbed it and shoveled it into his mouth.

Fruit grows wild everywhere in Charleston: citrus, kumquats, berries, a variety of wild plums, and one of my seasonal favorites: the bull grape, aka muscadine or scuppernong.

At the time, Papa made and drank locust beer, and Mama made scuppernong and blackberry wines for church communion.

Mr. Lee serves the catfish in a traditional way, fried alongside a zingy jalapeño-mint aioli and pickled scuppernongs, a sweet Southern grape.

John and Dale took home pimento cheese, a jar of scuppernong jelly, and a jar of sorghum.