51�Թ�

“La ����ñ�ǰ��� said she only grabbed important documents and left,” she told me.

Jurado’s pitch to the ����ñ�ǰ���: Born and raised in the district.

“Senora,” a cellphone vendor called out, asking what she needed and assuming, perhaps, that she spoke Spanish.

In a city that was once part of the Spanish empire, she was no longer “����ñ�ǰ���,” as she would have been called in Caracas, or perhaps, in her younger years, “muchacha” or “chama.”

The Nuestra Señora del Pilar cooperative, through which hundreds of Jaén olive farmers produce their oil, is the biggest factory of its kind in the world.