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The fur shapka on his head was grimy and clumped, pulled down around his ears.

At Anya’s house, Demyan pulled off his shapka and clutched it in his hand.

A stern customs officer took off my furry shapka and poked at the still warm lining, looking for diamonds my parents might have hidden there.

But before all of that there was skiing, and Yugoslavia had plenty of it, from Kranjska Gora in the north to Papova Shapka in the south.

And the official greeting program featured a blonde, bikini-clad snowboarder wearing a big brown shapka and mittens that look like bear claws.