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The fried fish cakes are springy as ever, and the lemongrass broth, punctuated with shrimp and straw mushrooms, retains its tang; Panngern changed the look, but not the chef.

As I walked home, my cans of straw mushrooms and bamboo sprouts clanked together in my backpack, so that I didn’t ever forget as well.

The flavorful mix of coconut milk, fresh lime juice, fish sauce and lemongrass complements the straw mushrooms, Thai peppers and chunks of chicken.

And the tom kha kai, usually a rich and creamy soup with coconut milk, galangal and straw mushrooms, was thin and unsatisfying.

It was a brown straw mushroom with a dull red feather round it.