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If you don’t have sumac or lemon on hand, you can even try something flashier, like balsamic, Worcestershire, fish sauce, soy sauce or the like.

Hillsides choked with sumac, sage and buckwheat a week earlier now had the look of the inside of a very ancient barbecue.

Returning to the trail, with its soothing chorus of crickets, velvety laurel sumac shrubs and feathery wild grasses, something inside me loosened.

Acres of terraced growing areas and multiple greenhouses produced many native plants grown from seed collected around the park such as sumacs, ceanothus, yellow-blooming flannel bush, manzanitas, barberries, monkeyflowers, Catalina cherry, toyon and coffeeberry.

Hardly a week goes by without using saffron, turmeric, pomegranate molasses, tamarind, cinnamon, or sumac in my cooking.