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Where the flesh of a fresh summer tomato gives way easily — its smooth, taut skin snapping like a helium balloon to release a flood of sun-warmed juice — a sun-dried tomato resists.

For the spice enthusiast, Burlap & Barrel’s Chef’s Collection offers unique options like sun-dried tomato powder and ground black lime.

It started showing up by A-list name in the fancy foods lists of the 1990s, a contemporary of balsamic vinegar and sun-dried tomatoes.

The list of kaleidoscopically flavorful dishes include caramel plums with cinnamon, sour cream and candied hazelnuts; steamed leeks with sour cream; panko-coated egg and green; and roasted and sun-dried tomato dip with “Polish dukkah.”

And a treat that I allow myself over Christmas is in olive oil with sun-dried tomato inside the green olive.