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A native of Jacqueville, a small coastal town where attiéké is made, she features it heavily in the menu of her New York supper clubs.

More supper clubs have emerged, while slow burns like magazine collaging are a hit.

This all seemed like throat clearing to me, as did the complete reconfiguration of the auditorium itself, which is now arranged like a large supper club or a small stadium.

A campus "supper club" gave out 500 meals in three weeks, she said, with some students "at breaking point".

“All three couples, we all grew up going to Wisconsin for vacations, going to supper clubs,” he said.