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The American restaurant’s chef de cuisine is pushing an envelope or two as well, using testa, or head cheese, as a filling for a corn dog and radically rethinking such classic preparations as paella.

The testa makes no effort to disguise its origins as a pig’s head.

It included Tuscan prosciutto and two fine salamis from Portland’s Olympic Provisions, but the highlights were made in-house: delicate mortadella and lamb testa, a deliciously gamy head cheese.

Seeds roundish, with a smooth and shining crustaceous testa and copious albumen.

And then the Parmesan, "I will put him to sleep and bear him to the capo in testa in our name!"