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The day I was there for lunch, the dining room was buzzing with people clinking wineglasses and cooing over new babies.

Early birds carted off their treasures, while latecomers swarmed over boxes of stemless wineglasses and waffle-knit slippers, grabbing whatever they could carry or pry from the wall.

Your host needs an accurate head count to order a turkey, haul chairs up from the basement, polish the silver, rinse the wineglasses and buy the groceries.

The opening credits set the tone: A series of upscale accouterments — wineglasses, handbags, fine furniture — explode, one by one.

Ticket includes 10 tastings, a program guide, disposable wineglass and wrist band.