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“You can sit around and moan, or you can be proactive,” says Zuleika Fennell, the managing director of Corbin & King, a restaurant group that, like Handling’s, is pioneering change in the sector.

Zuleika Hassan said she had brought her five-month-old baby with her to work because of a domestic emergency and that parliament didn't have a creche.

“Oh, it smells so good in here,” said Zuleika Hernandez, 32, while walking through the door.

They would say, “I like Zuleika,” and you knew that meant if you tried anything with Zuleika there’d be a fight.

Having since read, I think, pretty much every line he ever published—including his theatre criticism, not represented here, his radio broadcasts, and even his verse—I was for a long time a passionate Maximilian, even making a failed college effort to turn his novel, “Zuleika Dobson,” into a musical comedy, an enterprise at which Wolcott Gibbs and George and Ira Gershwin also failed.