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By then, he had also started working as a kind of in-house translator for Grove Press, falling into the field after he began holding dinner parties where he cooked blanquette de veau and read French poetry for friends who couldn’t speak the language.

How could a veal blanquette or an entrecôte with morels and cream hold a candle to white bean foam with sea urchins or spherical melon caviar?

They contemplate with resignation the chalk-on-blackboard offerings of long-shuttered restaurants still promising a veal blanquette or a boeuf bourguignon.

The bestowal of the star to ONA, a restaurant near Bordeaux, is more evidence that a country long renown for classics like coq au vin, blanquette de veau and boeuf bourguignon has opened up to animal-free cuisine.

As early as the 1530s, the French were producing a cloudy, bubbly wine called Blanquette de Limoux by bottling it before the initial fermentation ended, thereby allowing some gases to build up inside the container.