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By then, he had also started working as a kind of in-house translator for Grove Press, falling into the field after he began holding dinner parties where he cooked blanquette de veau and read French poetry for friends who couldn’t speak the language.

The bestowal of the star to ONA, a restaurant near Bordeaux, is more evidence that a country long renown for classics like coq au vin, blanquette de veau and boeuf bourguignon has opened up to animal-free cuisine.

With red-and-white checked tablecloths, curved-back chairs and menu of traditional French fare such as boeuf bourguignon and blanquette de veau, l’Annexe looks like any neighborhood café where locals grab lunch or a quick coffee on their way somewhere else.

Bouillabaisse sometimes seems as old-fashioned as coq au vin or blanquette de veau.

On the menu is celeri remoulade, herring in oil with potatoes, marrow bones, escargots, cauliflower cheese, boeuf bourguignon, pot-au-feu, blanquette de veau, roast chicken with frites.