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It is a type of sherry; specifically, a happy medium between a light, fruity, unaged fino sherry and a dark, earthy, aged oloroso, a golden, oak-aged, medium-dry sherry much prized among the pinky-raisers in America and Europe in Poe’s day.

Ms. Chu often adds rum; if she wants to up the nuttiness, she’ll use a little oloroso or amontillado sherry.

It’s a cheese to savor on its own with a glass of Auslese or oloroso.

For A Mi Manera, Holzer mixes Bacardí Ocho, an 8-year aged rum that's become a mainstay for craft cocktails, with Oloroso sherry, a homemade strawberry syrup, lemon juice and the aforementioned aquafaba, and mint leaf garnish.

Dry sherries vary from crisp, saline fino and manzanilla to fruity amontillado and rich palo cortado and oloroso.